Cooktops, heaters and gas lines installed, tested and certified, with the supply and the route confirmed at the property before a figure is given.
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Gas work is not complicated to price once you know two things: what supply the property actually has, and what route a new line would have to take to get where you want it.
Neither is safe to assume in Northbridge. The land here was carved into lots by a development company to be sold, and it was built out slowly over more than a century afterwards. What serves a property is a matter of when and how that particular block was developed.
The route matters just as much. Boundaries were set for saleable frontage and the services came later, fitted around lots that already existed, so the path from a meter to a kitchen is frequently longer than the distance across the ground suggests.
A quote given without settling both is a quote that will move. We would rather spend the twenty minutes and give you a number that holds.


No switches, no phones indoors. Turn it off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring us from outside.
Ventilate, then get people out, then call from outdoors. That order matters more than anything else on this page.
Nothing electrical while you are still inside. No light switches, no extraction fan, no unplugging anything, and no phone call from the room that smells.
A licensed gas fitter picks up when you ring us. Where the right answer is the network's emergency line instead, we will say so rather than take a booking.
Built out in stages across more than a century, so what reaches a house varies from street to street and sometimes within one. Nothing about this suburb can be assumed at the boundary.
That is a consequence of the way the ground was sold. Lots were drawn first and services followed, unevenly, over a very long period.
So the first question on any new gas work here is what actually reaches your property, and it gets checked rather than assumed.
Lots drawn for sale, services fitted afterwards, gives longer and less direct paths than the block suggests. A new run to an appliance frequently travels further than anybody expects.
On a steep block it also travels through more difficult ground, and around obstacles rather than through them.
Which is why a per-metre figure is an estimate rather than a price, and a real quote comes from somebody having walked the route.
Gas pressure falls along a run, and the drop grows with length and with how much the pipe is being asked to carry. A long run to a large appliance needs a bigger bore than a short one.
So a longer route is not simply more metres of the same pipe. It may need a larger diameter, and that belongs in the comparison.
Undersized pipe is the reason an appliance works fine alone and poorly when something else is running.
Adding an appliance is a sizing calculation against total demand, not a plug-in. The line has a capacity and so does the meter, and a new appliance has to fit inside both.
Where it does not, appliances starve each other, and a burner that drops off whenever somebody runs a shower is nearly always this rather than a faulty appliance.
Doing the sums first is most of the difference between an installation that works and a callback.
The input rating on the plate is what the calculation uses, stated in megajoules per hour, and it is usually underneath or on the back of the appliance.
A photograph of that plate is enough to get started, and it is the single most useful thing you can send before a quote.
Bring it early rather than late, because it decides the pipe size and therefore the route and therefore the price.
Every outdoor gas appliance has required clearances to combustible material, and a flue terminal has required distances from windows, doors and vents.
A shrub thickens, a hedge closes in, a screen goes up to hide a unit. Nobody decides to encroach on a clearance and it happens anyway over several seasons.
On blocks backing onto bushland it is the most common non-fault we find, and the fix is usually secateurs and ten minutes.
An unflued gas heater discharges into the room it is heating, which is how it is designed to work and why they are not permitted in a bedroom or a bathroom.
A lounge becomes a bedroom, a sunroom becomes a spare room, an under-house space gets closed in. The heater does not move and nobody reconsiders it.
That is how a legal installation from decades ago ends up somewhere it is no longer allowed, without anybody having done anything wrong.
Correct pipe size for the run and the total load. A held pressure test. Manufacturer clearances observed. Flueing that discharges to the right place. Ventilation appropriate to the appliance and the volume of the room.
None of it is discretionary and none of it is visible afterwards, which is an unusual combination and the reason the certification system exists.
It is the strongest practical argument against having gas work done by somebody who cannot issue one.
Required on every gas job, and worth filing rather than filing away. It records who did the work, that they held a licence, and that the installation met the standard on the day.
It is what an insurer asks for after an incident and what a conveyancer eventually asks for at sale, and it cannot be recreated afterwards.
On a long buried run it is also the only record of where the pipe actually went, which matters the next time anybody digs.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Connected, tested and certified in the one visit.
Priced on the run, which on this layout is the number that moves.
Including the compliance certificate in your hand.
On the confirmed route rather than on an estimate of it.
Made safe at any hour, with the cause established afterwards.

Whether the property has a meter, what is already connected, and what you want to add.

The available supply confirmed and the run walked, because those two things are the quote.

Fitted to the Australian Standards and pressure tested before anything is signed off.

The Certificate of Compliance handed over before we leave rather than posted afterwards.
Get outside, leave the switches alone, and ring. A licensed gas fitter can be on the way immediately.
Call 1300 381 569
It is a per-property question here rather than a suburb-wide one, and it is the first thing we establish. This ground was subdivided to be sold and served afterwards as it was built out, so the honest answer for your address is the one we confirm at the meter rather than the one we assume from the street.
Because on this layout the route is rarely the short one. Boundaries follow saleable frontage and services were fitted around lots that were already drawn, so the path from the meter to where you want an appliance is frequently longer and less direct than it looks. That is length of line, and length of line is cost.
Usually, and it is a sizing question rather than a yes or no. Every appliance draws on the same supply, so what matters is total demand against what the line and the meter can deliver. We calculate it rather than hoping.
Yes, on every gas job, and it is not optional. Keep it. Insurers ask for it after an incident and conveyancers ask for it at sale, and reconstructing one years later is a problem you do not want.
Get everyone outside first. Do not touch a light switch or anything else electrical, do not use a phone indoors, and turn the supply off at the meter only if you can reach it safely. Ring from outside.
Yes. Have the model to hand when you ring, because its input rating is what decides whether the existing line will carry it alongside everything else already connected.
An appliance connection is $200 to $500. A new gas point is $500 to $1,200 depending on the run. A leak test and certificate is $180 to $350. A meter to appliance line is quoted on the length once the route is confirmed.
Tell us whether the property has a meter and what you want connected. If you have the appliance model, that settles the sizing on the phone.
Installed, tested and certified, at the figure agreed before we started.
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